Portugal’s Tasca Culture by Defne Kayacık
image by Defne Kayacık
It’s a long story how meyhane culture began… When we trace the roots of the word, we find it comes from Persian: mey (wine) and khāneh (house). For thousands of years, from Byzantium to the Romans and later the Ottomans, these places have been essential gathering spots—where people came together, shared small plates, and enjoyed their drinks. Naturally, these public spaces transformed over time, yet they remained significant centers of culture and daily life.
Looking across the Mediterranean, we find different versions of meyhane. While their functions have evolved, the core remains unchanged. I like to call them “places where you feel you belong and can truly relax”—of course, with a little good food and alcohol to complete the experience.
As I explored further, I realized how deeply meyhane culture is tied to port cities. Sailors, with long hours to pass while waiting for their cargo to be loaded or unloaded, needed a way to fill that uncertain time. And what better way than with wine and conversation? That’s the essence of it—stretching the night as long as possible, drinking steadily, and eating occasionally, just enough to keep you going.
image by Defne Kayacık
So, we have small plates—seasonal, fresh, bursting with bold flavors and rich textures. The kind of food that complements the alcohol, allowing you to truly savor the night.
It’s no surprise, then, to find Portugal’s tasca culture mirroring the spirit of the meyhane. Traditionally, both tascas and meyhanes were often family-run establishments, intimate and welcoming. Though the structure has changed over the years, the essence of these places still lingers. That’s why I’ve carefully picked my must-try tascas in Lisbon—each one carrying that authentic, family-style atmosphere. Let me know which ones you’ve tried or which are on your list!
Next time we will dig gastronomic experience in Tascas and meyhane’s similarities petiscos and meze's.
O Velho Eurico
image source: ©2foodtrippers
It is said that Eurico was a young man from the province, sent to Lisbon to work. Living in Mouraria, he turned this corner into a true Portuguese tavern for many years. Out of respect for Eurico, Zé Paulo Rocha kept his name.
Always check the blackboard menu on the wall for the day's dishes—this is where the magic happens. Fresh, seasonal, and full of flavor. specially in season, you need to make a reservation weeks in advance!
Ze da mouraria
image source: Tripadvisor photo by Francisco L
This hidden gem—well, at least in terms of location—is tucked away behind the narrow streets of Mouraria. The name “Zé” comes from José, a typical Portuguese shortening. This is a proper family-run tasca where you’ll see photos of José (Zé) himself and plenty of portraits of famous fado singers born in Mouraria.
They’re only open for lunch, and portions are enormous—so come hungry!
Tasca Baldracca
image source: thefork.com photo by Alessandra D.
Okey, this place is not that “authentic Portuguese tasca,” however, it definitely carries the true soul of tasca, with its warmth , atmosphere, and a delicious selection of food to share, all wrapped in a family atmosphere. The chefs apply amazing twists with contemporary touches while still maintaining tasca traditions—friendly, simple, yet incredibly flavorful.
image by Defne Kayacık
I definitely recommend the shared plates option—order at least 4-5 different dishes from the daily chalkboard menu. You will not only have the chance to taste some of the most traditional Portuguese recipes, but thanks to Chef Pedro Monteiro, you’ll also find some twists inspired by the Brazilian coast. Always go with a reservation, but they still try to accommodate people in case of no-shows.
Taberna da rua flores
image source: timeout/lisbon, photo by Arlindo Camacho
This isn’t your typical tasca. Chef André Magalhães is a true storyteller, and he shares his stories through a carefully curated menu. He always finds a way to express Portugal’s rich diversity—blending flavors from past colonies, historical influences, and traditional techniques. His deep passion for food and culture isn’t just reflected in the dishes but also in the way he constantly inspires Portuguese gastronomy.
Taberna Sal Grosso
image source: paulstravelpics
One of the smallest yet most incredible dining experiences in Lisbon. Taberna Sal Grosso was one of the first modern tascas in the city, with a menu that changes with the seasons.
During COVID, the original owner closed the restaurant and returned to his hometown. Luckily, young chefs Jorge Melgas and Luís Pimenta couldn’t bear to see this gem disappear—so they stepped in (thank god!) and brought this small heaven back to life.
The team here loves sharing the stories behind their dishes and will happily guide you through a selection of must-try plates. Just a heads-up—there are only 25 seats, so reservations are always a good idea. Alongside their takes on old classics, don’t miss these young chefs’ fresh, creative twists.
Next time, I’ll try to dive deeper into the similarities between petiscos and meze—how these small plates define the social dining experience in both cultures.
